First off, we were totally bummed that we didn’t get our passports stamped in either New Zealand or Australia. We had to fill out ETAs for both countries and pay a fee to enter ahead of time. However, as is the case with a lot of other countries, they no longer stamp passports. I was thinking we would have kiwi stamp for New Zealand and a kangaroo for Australia. Sigh.
The Auckland Airport was beautiful and welcoming. With only 5 million people in the country of New Zealand, 4 million live on the north island and 1 million live in the south island. Of those 4 million people living in the north island, 1.5 million live in Auckland, the biggest city in New Zealand. That is 1/3 of the population of the country in one city, if you are a math person. Auckland is called the City of Sails. New Zealand has about 2000 miles of coastline…so watersports are very popular here. Auckland is only 11 miles coast to coast, so it is one of the most walkable cities. There is one area that the locals call “Spaghetti Junction” where there are a bunch of overpasses and highways. Here’s a little Kiwi lingo for you: Togs (bathing suit) and Jangles (flipflops) and “sweet as” (cool) and “yeah, nah” (maybe). Here are some photos from the airport. Kira ora is the Māori greeting meaning hello or be well.





The people of New Zealand are very much into their culture and flora and fauna. They each feel they have a personal responsibility to keep their nation clean and pure. They have a goal for 2050 to eradicate all wild predators and bring back their native flora and fauna. It is their “Moonshot” as they call it. It is a tall order, but prior to people living on this country’s land, there were only two types of mammals, and they were both small bats. New Zealand has a lot of flightless birds. The Māori were the first to come to New Zealand and they brought Pacific rats with them in their boats. Then the Europeans brought possums and stoats to kill the rats. All of them fed on the native flightless birds and eggs of all the birds. They are still fighting this battle. Most people who live in New Zealand have traps on their property to catch the unwanted predators. The Kiwis have taken a step further and ask for all entering their country to honor their heritage, their land, and what they are trying to do as a country. This sign was in all the ports and in several places in the airport – the Tiaki promise. Tiaki is a Māori word meaning to care for, guard, and protect people and places.

Auckland….I just loved it! Rich and I have decided over the last several years that we are just not city people. We would rather spend time in the countryside. However, we really enjoyed our time in Auckland, even in the city centre, where we stayed. It is hilly. We were lucky that we could walk from our hotel to the port to board our ship and it was all downhill. We landed in the morning and were happy that once we got to our hotel, we only waited about 30 minutes before they had our rooms ready for us. We were able to drop our bags off, change from our travel clothes to walk-about-town clothes and take off to explore. We were pretty jet lagged but were determined to stay up until 8 p.m. and try to get ourselves on a good local schedule. We were in Auckland for three days prior to boarding the ship. The first two days we had passes for the Hop On Hop Off Bus. We usually like to do at least the first day in a city on something like this so we can get the lay of the land and get from point A to point B with relative ease. Also, there is a recording tell you facts about the city that we would have not known about as well. Did we need two days? Probably 24 hours would have been okay. However, we did get to go to a lot of neat places within the city. The next several paragraphs will be of information I gleaned off the recordings and photos of places we stopped that we found interesting.
Auckland has an art gallery which contains the largest collection of Māori art in New Zealand. We didn’t get a chance to go in there, but I think it should be on your list of things to see if you go. They also have a place called the Civic Palace that is a 1920’s era theatre. It is the only atmospheric theatre in the southern hemisphere. What is an atmospheric theatre, you ask? Well, after we all came up with blanks, I looked it up. An atmospheric theater is a 1920’s era theatre that is decorated as if it is outside…think deep blue ceilings with stars painted on it so you feel like you are outside but you are inside.
We are huge All Black fans. What are the All Blacks? It is the New Zealand men’s national rugby team. The women’s team is called the Black Ferns. Both have silver ferns on their chest on a uniform of all black. They are the premier rugby teams in the world. Whenever the All Blacks 15’s team is in the U.S., I am usually there. I have seen them in Chicago a couple of times and in Washington, D.C. Their 7’s team also does quite well and I used to watch them in person with my boys when they were playing the U.S. circuit in Las Vegas. Anyhow, when you think of New Zealand, you think of rugby….and you think of kiwis (the bird, the fruit, and the nickname for New Zealanders), and you think of ferns. There are over 200 fern species in New Zealand and 40% of those fern species grow nowhere else on earth. We stopped at the Winter Gardens in Auckland and they actually have a big area called the Fernery there. I grew up thinking ferns were just ground cover or bushy plants in pots. Nope…they have fern TREES. I have never seen anything like it. They are everywhere though! Here are some photos from the winter garden.









Okay, some additional random facts about New Zealand….there are 160 languages spoken in New Zealand. However, there are only 3 official languages: English, Māori, and New Zealand Sign Language. Auckland is the largest Polynesian city in the world. Over half the population is Polynesian. New Zealand has more golf courses per capita than anywhere on earth besides Scotland. New Zealand is a relatively young country. No one even lived here until 600-700 years ago. The Māori came first and settled. They fished off the coast and they hunted a flightless HUGE bird called a Moa. The Moa bird is now extinct but think about an ostrich or emu the size of an elephant. They have been extinct for nearly 400 years now. The Māori call New Zealand “Aotearoa” which means “the land of the long white cloud.” That name is used often in conversation and interchangeably with “New Zealand”. Then the British came. New Zealand was established in 1840. From 1841 to 1865, Auckland was the capitol. Auckland is the largest city in New Zealand, with Christchurch coming in second (on the southern island) and coming in third, is Wellington, the capitol of the country, with about 235,000 people. Hamilton, the town south of Auckland, has 170,000 people and is growing quickly. They have the National and Labor parties for their government. About 65% of the population of New Zealand is of English/British decent. Māori make up 20% of the population (about 1 million). Asians (Chinese and Indian mostly) make up 15% of the population. We actually were very surprised at how many Asians we saw. There seemed to be a Chinese restaurant every 4th door when we were walking around the city center. The main tourists are folks from Australia and Americans. The weather in Auckland never drops below freezing. However, if you drive south to the South Island, you can find skiing in the wintertime. It was odd knowing that heading north meant warmer temps and heading south meant cooler temps. Also, our winter is their summer. They enjoy summertime BBQs for their Christmas celebrations and are often on the water. Kids get about 6 weeks off of school over the Christmas holidays to enjoy the warm weather with their families. State Hwy 1 runs from the tip of the northern island to the southern part of the southern island, running 1270 miles. This includes a ride on the car ferry getting you between the north and south islands. As for sports…the most popular sports in the winter are rugby, netball, and hockey. The summer sports are tennis and cricket. Sports are pretty big in New Zealand. All children are expected to be on teams and participate in sports. We passed Eden Park, where the All Blacks Rugby team play (cricket plays there as well). That was pretty cool.
One of the places we got off the Hop On Hop Off bus to stretch our legs was MOTAT. That stands for Museum of Transportation and Technology. Yawn. We didn’t go into the building. We walked along the park near it called Western Springs Park. There was a pond there they called “Eel Pond”, well, because it was full of longfin eels. There were A LOT of them. You expect to see fish…not eels. Evidently they can live up to 80 years and are the biggest eel in the world. They can live on land for up to 2 days breathing through their skin. That’s the stuff of nightmares, right there, folks. There were also a lot of swans…black swans. Never saw a white swan while we were in New Zealand. Theirs are all black. (play on words there….) There were also ducks there including mallards, NZ Scaup, and Paradise Shelducks. There are over 5000 tree species in New Zealand and I am a sucker for a pretty tree, so you have been warned. Photos will include tree photos! Here are some of the photos from our walk in this pretty park.


















Another place we stopped along the bus route was Mount Eden (Maungawhau). We walked to the top of an extinct volcano for beautiful views over the city. It was about 300 meters each way, so about a 10-minute walk. It is a 75 hectare green space. It is a crater on top of an extinct volcano. The large crater creates a grassy bowl. It is roped off and considered sacred ground. No one is allowed to walk on that part of the park.






Here are a few other random photos we took as we walked around the city. If you get confused between the New Zealand and the Australian flags, you are not alone. They look very similar. Both flags are a blue standard with the British Union Jack in the upper lefthand corner. Australia has a constellation of 4 stars with one smaller star for a total of 5 white stars on the right-hand side of the flag. They also have a larger white star with 7 points under the Union Jack. The New Zealand flag has the same 4 start constellation next to the Union Jack, but they are white stars outlined in red. We noticed that on the boats, the background color for the flags were red instead of blue, we are guessing it was to better see them against the blue water. We happened to be in New Zealand on their holiday on Feb 6th, Waitangi Day. It commemorates the 1840 signing of the Treaty of Waitangi – between the Māori and the British to form New Zealand as a country. The tall spire-like building is the Sky City Tower. It is 328 meters high. We had drinks and listened to live music at the base of it each afternoon we were there. It was a short walk from our hotel. We watched people do sky jumps off the top of it – you jump but are attached to a wire that slows you down towards the bottom. They fall 192 meters. Yep, happy to watch, not to play. Rich’s brother and sister-in-law were on the lookout for an ice cream place called Giapo Ice Cream. They make wild shapes with their ice cream cones and they were looking for the chocolate squid. They found it! We went out to eat at two nicer restaurants while we were there: Sails and White and Wongs. White and Wongs was phenomenal. It is Asian fusion and everything was reasonably priced and delicious. We also were able to walk there. Sails is a higher end seafood place you need a reservation for. The food was good but it wasn’t necessarily worth the Uber ride to get there and back. We arrived just before Chinese New Year kicked off. With the huge Chinese population in the region, there was no shortage on decorations. Rich and I attended Sunday Mass at The Catholic Cathedral of St. Patrick and St. Joseph, which was a short walk from our hotel. We lit a candle for our Joe there.





















Rich and I also went to the All Blacks Experience – an interactive museum where you learn about the history and culture of the All Blacks rugby teams – men’s and women’s. There is a swirling Māori tattoo of sorts along the walls of the museum with the names of all players who have ever played for the team. Next to their name is a number…the higher the number, the newer the team member. I found a few of my favorites. We had a blast spending time there. There is a piece of jade or pounamu that the team actually takes with them when they play overseas. They were in the off season, so the jade stone was there for us to touch. Each player touches it as they go onto the pitch to play. Many New Zealanders wear a jade carving around a leather strap around their necks. The carvings represent different meanings and blessings. You never buy one for yourself. It is meant to be a gift from a loved one. The jade warms and it is believed to absorb the wearer’s mauri (life force). This is interesting as when I was in China, they have somewhat of the same tradition with their jade bracelets for women. The jade pieces are a sacred taonga (treasure) and are often handed down through the generations. Back to the All Blacks Experience….we got to stand on astro turf in front of a screen while life-sized players performed the haka in front of you as if you were the opposing team. The haka is often thought of as a war dance, but it is really a sign of respect. They feel you are a worthy opponent; you see the haka. If a special person dies, the haka is performed at their funeral. If you achieve something wonderful – like graduation from college, your family can do the haka for you. It was intense enough to blow your hair backwards. The women’s version of the haka is different, but no less intense. Anyhow, if you are a rugby fan at all…this is your haven. If you know rugby at all, you know about Jonah Lomu. He debuted for the All Blacks rugby union team in 1994. He was a beast of a man…large but the fastest player on the team. He was 6 ft 5 in and weight 276 lbs. He was considered one of the best rugby players of all times. He died in 2015 at the age of 40 due to a heart attack. He was a gentle giant with a heart of gold off the field and a beast who wouldn’t be slayed on the pitch. Seeing his jersey and his name on the wall meant a lot to this fan.


















Our last day in Auckland, we took a trip to Piha Beach. It is a black sand beach known for good surfing. It is one of the most popular surfing beaches in the world. There is a large rock they call Lion Rock, right next to the shore. Behind some of the rocks are colonies of small penguins. I didn’t get to see them though. The water made the black sand shimmer and was a perfect canvas for reflections of the rock formations around the beach. The sand was thick! I felt like I was walking through brownie batter.











After some time on Piha Beach, we drove a few minutes down the road to Kitekite Falls. We walked along a trail in the native forest to get to a multi-tiered waterfall. We walked through ferns and ancient kauri trees. This was one of the places we had to clean the soles of our shoes entering the trail and then exiting. They are really trying to maintain their local flora and fauna. They don’t want anything brought into the area. You will see some fern trees in these photos. Rich took a dip in the water. He said it was incredibly cold. He also found an eel!







After three full days in Auckland, it was time for us to head to our ship, the Holland America Lines MS Noordam. We were actually able to walk to the port as it was all downhill for us and took maybe 10 minutes to walk there. My brother-in-law decided to try and surf his suitcases down, but it didn’t quite work…. We had a great time in Auckland and would highly recommend a trip there!





























































































